ubud

Waking up in Ubud to a verdant green valley lined with banana palms starts the day in serenity. Outside a table overlooks the river Campuhan where a flask of hot tea and sugar bananas is placed every morning by a young girl padding silently past the simple single room cottages lining the hillside. A fifteen minute walk down the hill takes us to Ubud - the cultural and artistic heart of Bali- 5 minutes by rented motorbike- a great way to get around. This is an enchanted place with many laid back restaurants, galleries and markets to become absorbed in.  
A cooking class presented an opportunity to check out spices used in gado gado, my fave Indonesian dish and to meet travellers from distant parts of the world. Don't miss a chance to buy a ticket to see the Kecak Monkey Chant- a  dramatic battle sequence from the Hindu epic 'Ramayana'-  captured in the brilliant 1993 film 'Baraka'. Jalan Monkey Forest is a street (next to the monkey forest!) where there are several small textile shops. I spent a lot of time at one in particular, looking at vintage ikats from Timor and fell in love with this woven floral pattern runner.

Kecak Dance

seminyak

Dusk at Abian Biu

Where you choose to stay when travelling can make a big impact on your enjoyment. Let's face it- it's your home and sanctuary for that time and if the staff are happy and friendly, that affects the way you see the people. I personally like to search out somewhere small and atmospheric, and nearly always, the people are lovely too. Abian Biu is a chichi little place with a pool near rice paddies about 10 minute taxi ride from Seminyak. The owner/manager 'Mr Yoseph', a flamboyant Javanese, has built the place in a traditional style of Java with Chinese overtones. He was decorator to royalty in Java and has furnished the place with old photographs and vintage pieces he has collected. The staff are very personable, relaxed and obviously love working here. I have seen some poor reviews but would go for feel over immaculate cleanliness anyday, particularly when reasonably priced and in countries that are not 1st world.

Seminyak is near the beach, with great little boutiques and quite a few nice little places to eat. My recommendations are- La Lucciola smack bang on the beach- beautiful view for breakfast, Made's Warung and Cafe Bali on Jalan Oberoi.

bali

Bali is the island dreams are made of- a tropical paradise. Temperate weather all year round and serene, gentle people- a mere 3 hour plus flight from Perth. Perfect for a week away! Australians take Bali for granted, often forgetting how exotic this island really is, how spiritual and special the culture and lifestyle.
 Several times a day offerings are made to the spirits in observance of Hindu beliefs. Homes, cafes and businesses will always have a shrine in one corner where incense sticks are lit and offerings of flowers, fruit and rice are made on bended knee with hands clasped and head bowed. There is a strong connection to the village of one's birth where it is considered a duty to return for any important occasion or religious observance- often resulting in frequent sudden departures! 
It is lovely to see both women and men often wearing the elegant traditional batik sarong as everyday dress.

margaret river

The southernmost tip of Western Australia is home to the famously beautiful area of Margaret River, known for producing world class wine and it's pristine coastline. There is a 135 km walk from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin in the south known as the Cape to Cape track. It meanders through protected national parks, kauri forests and down to the beaches - it can be walked in 4 days, camping along the way. I walked a section of it near Hamelin Bay when all the wildflowers were in bloom, catching sight of fat lizards sunning themselves on the sand. The big controversy happening currently is the potential coal mine being touted for the area. Locals make their own fun in this remote area- while visiting my brother, I was invited to a 'house concert' where Waifs drummer David Ross MacDonald entertained with ballads on guitar and stories. A neighbour told the fantastic story of how she came upon German kayaker Freya Hoffmeister landing on the beach at Augusta looking for somewhere to camp while circumnavigating Australia solo last year.

perth

Sailing on the Swan River -yes,there are (black) swans.

 

The huge coastline is a major feature of West Australia and sailing is a favourite pastime (remember the Americas Cup?). Perth is bounded by water-the Indian Ocean along the coast and the Swan River running right through the middle of the city. A 10 minute walk takes you from the city railway station to the banks of the Swan River where yachts race each other any day of the week. Another favourite pastime is drinking beer. The tradition of the great Aussie pub is testament to this- several fine examples still exist in Fremantle, notably the Sail and Anchor on South Terrace, located opposite another institution- the Fremantle Markets.I always visit this friendly and unique market. You never know what you'll find there. I picked up some wildflower honey and  a couple of great Aboriginal art calendars and CDs.

fremantle

South Tce- Aussie style

Arriving in Perth in November, you know you are at the edge of the desert when it is 39 degrees outside and the airport is full of sunburnt musclebound men wearing shorts and thongs in transit from booming mining towns up north. My flight took 5 1/2 hours by air from Brisbane, and I made a beeline for my favourite neighbourhood of Fremantle, or Freo as it is affectionately known to locals. Locals and tourists alike descend on the cafes, hotels and restaurants that abound in this lively seaside port. Historic sandstone buildings and shops line the streets and waterside. Check out 'Diamond Aps' on Wray Avenue where I snapped up a preloved mens Armani navy blazer and floral Guy Laroche shirt for Xmas pressies, making sure to have a coffee at Wild Poppy next door. Then take a step back in time to 'Bousfields' on High Street, a mens store that dates back to 1902 where they stock a great range of Akubra hats- I picked up a classic black felt 'Stylemaster' for moi.

bondi

 

One place everyone must visit once is the iconic Bondi Beach- even on an overcast day, it has appeal. Yes there are cooler beaches around - Clovelly, Bronte- but Bondi is the quintessential Aussie beach and I don't mind sharing it with everyone and their dog. Plenty of Australian films and television series have used Bondi as a backdrop. The home of the famous Bondi lifesavers, and the Art Deco 'Bathers Pavilion'. Take the #382 Dover Heights bus from the city, and see scenic winding backstreets of Darlinghurst, Paddington and Woollahra with all their historic terrace houses and bijoux boutiques. I made time to visit Axel Mano, a bespoke hat shop on cosmopolitan Queen Street in Woollahra, to get measured for a Milanese straw by milliner Susie Meekin. While I was there I spotted an irresistable 'garage sale' sign on a house a couple of doors down, where I snapped up a Persian rug hanging outside for a bargain $35. The only problem was lugging it back on the bus....

newtown

Sydneysiders have a unique freedom of self expression and sense of individuality evident in their sense of style and cultural identity. I love that on a walk around the back streets of an inner city suburb on a Sunday morning, I spotted these two gentlemen in earnest discussion, (hat wearers always appeal to me) and then only a street away, came across this colorful pair. Stayed in Newtown for the weekend at a bed and breakfast (best breakfast ever!) - Tara Guest House, a fabulous renovated ex doctors residence and a funky base to explore a truly multicultural and fascinating suburb of Sydney. An impromptu guest arrived for breakfast- photographer William Yang who opened a children's project at the Sherman Gallery the night before. Newtown is only a 10 minute walk to the railway station from (bus stop only 1 minute away)- there would have to be restaurants of nearly every country at every 2nd shop on Enmore Road. I saw Peruvian, Scandinavian, African and several Thai and Turkish. Spoilt for choice. The weekend happened to be Halloween and the Goths were out and proud, there was even a goth market outside the town hall. Black fishnet stockings and mohawks in abundance.

sydney harbour

I never tire of beautiful Sydney Harbour. As an Aussie, I love that I can visit my favourite places over and over again. Grab a Virgin Blue flight when they have their special fares- so reasonably priced- I paid $130 return from Brisbane to Sydney. Ferries are my favourite method of transport. The Sydney Harbour system crisscrosses from side to side - so many gorgeous waterside locations, all accessible by a variety of small to large ferries which travel several different routes. Catch the ferry to Balmain on a weekend and a 5 minute bus ride will take you to local Rozelle markets, a laidback neighbourhood market full of bargain treasures, on the spot massage tent, entertainment and good food. Other great wharves where the ferry stops are scenic Cremorne Point or McMahons Point- then walk up to the Balls Head Reserve for the best picnic spot and view.

Etran Finatawa - Surbajo

mosaic

Mosaic is everywhere in Morocco. The walls, floors, steps, and water fountains, both public and in the interior courtyards of riads.  The Middle East is where mosaic originated. Public water fountains are great displays of mosaic pattern in everyday use, particularly in older areas, where homes often don't have running water. The tiles are called zelliji. Ornamention is everywhere you look- every surface is painted, carved or decorated in some way- evidence of the abundant traditional handcraft traditions still practised in Morocco.

riad

Lovely Riad Malaika is a recently restored riad in a narrow backstreet of Essaouira. There are only 8 rooms over 3 levels with a rooftop terrace. The rooms in Essaouira are good value compared to Fes and Marrakech. Riad Malaika is run by a friendly and kind French-Belgian couple, aided and abetted by the savvy and knowledgable Hakim- a young local guy who speaks several languages, learnt while working in one of the shops. Everything in the town is within walking distance, including one of the best Moroccan restaurants we visited for tajine only two minutes around the corner. There is an Arabic expression used frequently that I love, which roughly translated means 'If it is Allah's (God's) will' - 'Insha'Allah', meaning- 'hopefully'.
'Insha'Allah' I will return to Morocco...

essaouira

Essaouira is a peaceful coastal village 2 hours drive north of Marrakesh. The temperature goes down dramatically as soon as you arrive, and there is a cooling sea breeze.  The colour is blue- the buildings, the boats, the sea, the sky. The pace of life is so slow here, the locals are very laid back -the perfect place to while away a week or two. I loved Essaouira, and it is obvious that the hippie trail came this way too, as evidenced by the continuing tale of Jimi Hendrix' visit in the 60's. Ride a camel on the beach, sit in one of the many courtyard cafes and read a book for an hour or two, sip a traditional mint tea or the great Moroccan coffee. I found a tiny street stall selling a huge selection of African music including Mali musicians Rokia Traore and Ali Farka Toure. There is a great English language bookshop with more Paul Bowles books than I have seen anywhere.  The classic Bertolucci film version of 'Under the Sheltering Sky' featuring a young John Malkovich (with hair) will whet your appetite for Morocco, if you haven't seen it -do.

gnaoua

In the lane outside our riad we heard the hypnotic chanting of musicians. Following the sound of rhythmic percussion, we found the Gnaoua musicians busking and watched them twirling their tasselled hats. They can often be seen in the UNESCO listed Djemaa El Fna late at night, jumping around wildly twisting their heads to make the tassels fly while someone collects dirhams for the show. The square comes alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers and performers all gathering crowds of onlookers to a show which has been going since the 11th century and has to be seen to be believed. One of the greatest shows on earth!

marrakech

The train to Marrakech from Fes takes a full 8 hours (make that 9 after a delay) stopping at many stations along the way. After Fes it seems like a very large, noisy, busy city, full of honking, weaving cars, horse drawn carriages and crowds. The charm of Marrakech is hidden under it's exterior, hidden away in the quiet side streets and havens behind closed doors of the riads and homes. Moroccans I met seemed to be very reserved, thoughtful and good humoured and generally polite, not pushy. They are legendary traders and however much experience you may have at bargaining, you will not succeed in paying less than what your purchase is worth -at best. Mostly I saw men out and about in public- women less so, usually with other women, in a group, or with their husband.  Walking down the crowded streets meant being jostled constantly, and it made sense in the streets of near the busy Djemaa El Fna square to walk behind the women, as the men instantly respectfully clear a path for them, not so a tourist!
Whenever we needed a rest from the overwhelmingness of negotiating the city, we escaped gratefully to the cool peace and quiet of our riad. Maison Arabo-Andelouse is an ancient riad just outside the medina run by  Mohammed, a wonderful Berber gentleman. He cared for us in a most gracious, caring manner. When bidding our goodbyes, he made one of the most touching of gestures- placing the hand on the heart and a bowing of the head- a sign of respect in the Arab world.

souq

Wandering aimlessly is the best way to experience the 'medinas' or 'souqs' as the market areas are known, a spaghetti of narrow interconnected cobbled paths. Best to stick to the main ones if you don't want to get lost, which is inevitable. In the old city in Fez, there is a colour coded system of overhead signs marking the way at random intervals for five different routes. They are not always there when there is a fork in the road! I found this a helpful way to navigate until you start to recognise particular shops of landmarks. There are spectacular mosques and madrassas (Koranic schools) along the way which also serve to mark the way. In Fes, I saw signs requesting that  non Muslims not enter the mosques, a bit disappointing- however you can see the opulent interiors from the entrance. Five times a day you can hear the same 'call to prayer' from the speakers on the minaret on top of the mosques, easily the tallest towers visible. Men with their heads covered in a prayer cap, will race to the mosques. I saw one fellow who was late and locked out, standing outside with his eyes tightly shut, reciting the verses passionately along with those inside.

call to prayer

tannery

love his hat!

 Although the leather tannery of Fez is almost at the centre of the medina, you will never have trouble finding it. As you get closer, you will smell the unmistakable odour, simultaneously besieged by any number of people wanting to take you to their father/brother/cousin's shop. The leather shops are all situated close by -most with a birds' eye view of the dyepits, which is where these photos were taken, and where I saw the skins being dyed for the yellow baboosh.

A small girl aged about 10 years followed us there, in spite of us telling her we were not going to give her any dirhams-  all the way being told by stern Moroccan men that she should be at school. Unofficial tour guides are actively discouraged by the authorities, and any one caught is in trouble with the police. We had first hand experience of this, after we met an entertaining young man with terrible dental hygiene, speaking excellent English, while standing hopelessly lost in the street looking at a map. We followed him for an energetic, interesting 45 minutes through narrow twisting alleys far from any known route, when quite suddenly he was pursued at high speed on foot by two uniformed men while standing talking to me. We never saw him again, but hoped he got away as we had really come to enjoy his company.

the yellow baboosh

Sometimes you see people who make you look, for whatever reason. This man caught my eye, and not for the obvious - the vivid yellow of his djellaba. No, he had a strong presence in the way he mindfully walked along radiating great dignity. The hooded djellaba is a traditional garment worn by many men in Morocco, which is simply thrown on over their usual shirt and pants. They usually wear a pair of traditional pointy toe leather slippers also, called 'baboosh'. You can see them for sale in many market stalls, rows and rows of them in any number of colours.  Moroccans have a love affair with the colour yellow- specifically a shade produced by turmeric. As well as being a favourite colour to paint exterior and interior walls of houses, it is the colour du jour for the baboosh worn by trendy young guys in Fez and Marrakesh together with regular tshirts and jeans.

butcher

Imagine walking in a city where the streets have no names (well no streetsigns anyway), and there are no maps. But all the locals know exactly where they are going because they grew up there, and can find their way like a blind man. You must just walk in the general direction of a mud map and rely on asking directions (if you speak Arabic!) That's when your instincts kick in- it's fun! The alleys- souks- are all about 2 metres wide, and only wide enough for a donkey or horse as transport for the huge amounts they carry to the stalls. I was enchanted by the tiny Fassi cats that seemed to be everywhere they could get a free feed, particularly at this butcher right next to the bread sellers' table, who threw scraps now and then.

Fes

From Marseilles, Morocco is only 2 hours by air. To arrive in such a different culture- north Africa, is the just the best experience. The sounds, the heat, the smells.... a step back in time to a place that has not changed in centuries. I practiced Arabic phrases on the driver of the ancient faded beige Mercedes which wait en mass outside the airport in Fes or Fez. We were dropped at the 'Bab R'cif' one of the entries to the alleys of the medina- the Old City, where a fellow was waiting with a cart to take our luggage the 15 minute walk around narrow cobbled alleys to deposit us at the riad we stayed at for 6 days- Riad Le Calife. Alexandre, a Frenchman and his lovely Moroccan wife Yasmine were waiting for us with cold drinks in the cool and groovy bar where, over strains of jazz, he told us fabulous life stories with the genuine warmth and hospitality that is revered in the Islamic culture.
Way to go.

j'adore

 It's no secret- I love doors. There is so much you can do with a door, they really lend themselves to decoration.  You could say they are the windows to the soul of a home. They can make you want to enter, or stay away.

I loved that people were living behind those doors, just going about everyday life. Each one is different and they are so dramatic. I am sure they take them for granted, the same way anyone does when you see it every day. 

Provence

Get this straight- the French do markets. You do not need to go to a supermarket. We went to this gorgeous country market in a Carpentras in Provence, it runs every Friday morning. I had no idea there were so many varieties of tomato....there were stalls selling fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese, charcuterie, bread and any number of other things you might not know you needed- including those great cotton espadrilles in a huge variety of colours.  In any town or village in France, there will also be markets selling similar stuff- the farmers of France have worked out how to sell fresh and direct to the customer. There are similar suburban markets in Paris on several mornings a week- there was a market in the street outside our hotel three mornings a week. Food is generally quite cheap compared to Australia and of a high standard. You can buy alcohol and organic skincare at the supermarkets at less than half the price I am used to paying.


We stayed at a fabulous 'bastide' - A Cappella a converted farmhouse with a pool in the countryside outside of Carpentras in the vineyard district. They have three rooms and our hosts Remy and Christine were wonderful. Christine recommended a couple of restaurants to us. We drove our rented car to a gorgeous little village nearby- St. Didier, and the other was simply eight tables in the courtyard of a family run vineyard in Pernes Les Fontaines which we visited the next night.

Domaine de la Camarette is a restaurant run by the family who grow all the produce used and bottle the wine served. The chef was picking herbs in the garden next to where we pulled up. He came to the table and lovingly explained the four courses of the set menu, his charming wife served the meals while their toddlers played with their cat near the tables. There are also a couple of rooms for guests. This visit was a highlight of our stay in Provence, however a booking is definitely required.
ps. Do not miss a day wandering in the atmospheric Pannier quartier in Marseilles - not on the map now, but not for very much longer.

mon bon ami

Much is made of the topic of Paris and doggie doodoo. However I personally never had any unfortunate incidents between my tootsies and dog merde. I did see many adored pooches with their owners in the streets, at cafes, restaurants or being carried, much as you would in Melbourne, being another very dog friendly city. Most Parisians live in apartments, and so does Pierre, in fact he is one of the family. This means that he is a very pampered pet used to living in confined spaces and not a smelly uncultured creature like one would have living in the backyard like we do in Australia. Hmmm, they say dogs are just like their owners....

City of Romance

You can walk from the Louvre across the Seine to the Left Bank on a bridge called the Pont des Arts. There are quite a few ancient bridges crossing the river, however this one piqued my interest as it had lots of padlocks attached to the wire on the sides. It was only later that I thought to google this phenomenon and found the story behind them. It seems that about two years ago it became a trend for lovers to come at sunset, lock a padlock onto the bridge and throw away the key. Sighhhhh.....
(It was reported recently that city hall has decided they are an affront and want to get rid of them.)

Jardin des Tuilleries

A day at the Louvre museum was high on the list of must sees. If I lived in Paris then I would be there often, it is just amazing to be in a palace that was built in the 13th century. And the first Sunday of each month is free entry.  I could really feel all lives of the many people who must have lived there. At one time the 1st floor was apparently home to artists and craftspeople until Napoleon moved in and wanted it all to himself and Josephine. I went twice. I don't know how many kilometres you can cover in a day there, but at the end I was definitely ready for a lie down and a cup of tea. Well you don't have to go far, because just 5 minutes walk away is the lush grass of Jardin des Tuilleries just behind that hedge, and at lunch time -everyone else had the same idea.

Loving this Sara Tavares clip

Boulangerie

You do not need to go far to find a Boulangerie (bread shop) or Patisserie (pastry shop) in Paris.

In fact, you will find it hard to choose, as they are nearly as plentiful as cafes. The French create the most beautiful concoctions ever, and they taste as good as they look. They are treated as works of art and are packaged just as respectfully -often wrapped in waxed paper printed with a crest of the shop. Every afternoon I eagerly anticipated a new selection, however my favourite would have to be a 'fraisier' -strawberry tart. There was an excellent boulangerie across the road from our hotel which often had a queue out the door, their croissants were to die for. The French are quite fanatical about their bread and will have a favourite that they frequent on a daily basis, and it is a common sight to see happy customers walking home with a couple of baguettes under their arm, munching on another.
And remember the cardinal rule when shopping- you must always address the shopkeeper with a 'Bonjour' when you enter, and 'merci, avoir' when you leave. It's just good manners.

Le Marais

 Did you think I forgot about shopping?? Not a chance- I made sure to
take in the gorgeous district of the Marais (it's original meaning is 'the marsh') -an area full of tiny streets and beautiful old buildings undergoing gentrification. Many of these buildings have fabulous chic boutiques, cafes and a lot of unique accessories and individual designs. My very favourite is at 47 Rue Saintonge- Isabel Marant. Loved the window display of a cactus garden and the design of the store. Across the street I spotted a tiny boutique which was closed on Saturday (many are) -where this simple, soft leather bag caught my eye in the window. You will also find  the oldest food market in Paris here- 'Le Marche des Enfants' built in 1615, a good reason to stop for lunch. I would really recommend a visit to this area starting at Bastille station, walking along Rue de Rivoli, taking the 3rd street right to the lovely Maison de Victor Hugo, and continuing through to the garden of Place de Vosges, then walking north towards Rue Veille du Temple and just get lost!

Bon Marche

Another great Parisienne thing to do on a weekend is visiting a flea market. There are several large well known ones around, however this one is quite a casual relaxed affair south of Paris near Porte de Vanves station. Unlike other markets I have been to, they hardly notice you, in fact it is fairly hard to get their attention if they are deep in discussion. I suspect it is just as much an social occasion for the stall holders, who seem to really enjoy themselves conversing with each other. Check out these dudes -they are seriously into debate (notice the hand gesturing- a lot of that goes on when making a point) and have a platter of cheese, bread and red wine set up behind them on a tablecloth no less. They are selling pewterware (not cheese) and this is 10am in the morning. Now to me, that is the is doing it in the style that the French are renowned for.

canal

Really, the best way to see anything at all is to walk, and a walk by the canal is a leisurely Sunday thing to do. Get off the metro at Port d'Orleans- change at Gare d'Est, the streets are narrow and paved in cobblestones along both sides of a canal that goes through Paris. Spotted a small group of musos including a guitars, ukelele, flute and singer practising folk songs.

It is possible to rent a houseboat and travel all the way down. They stop as this one did at each lock to wait while the water drains out and then the next gate opens when the waterlevel meets the other side. There were bicycles and kids onboard as well as women sunbaking in bikinis while pedestrians watched from the bridge overhead. What a way to go.

Le Cafe

Yes, it's a cliche, but Paris abounds with cliches, they are mostly true to some extent. French cafes are great places to sit and do a spot of people watching (outside chairs are usually facing the street), read, write, meet, or just sit and smoke. Yup, le smoking is still in fashion here big time. The beauty of the cafe is that everyone goes to them, doesn't matter if you are old, young, alone, in a crowd, it's really relaxed, you can sit forever -no one will hassle you- and there is one every 10 metres. The French make great coffee, and it's cheap, but don't go asking for a soy decaf. There is no such thing.

Metro

First thing you need to do when you arrive in Paris is to work out how to use the metro, which is a fabulous way to get around. But get ready for the stairs! They seem to leave every few minutes and the underground stations are easy walking distance from just about everywhere you want to go. There are maps on the walls of the station and the ticket machines have English translations. The best thing to do for a stay of a few days is to buy a 'carnet' of 10 tickets or a single ticket you can use for the whole time. Make your life simpler by travelling outside the peak times (going to and from work) and be aware that on the weekends everyone and their dog (really!) uses the metro and it gets very up close and personal, something I haven't experienced since Tokyo. You can turn this to your advantage by making a beeline for someone cute looking and when I was there I saw quite a few model looking types, particularly near the groovy districts-Odeon, Bastille, etc.