ubud

Waking up in Ubud to a verdant green valley lined with banana palms starts the day in serenity. Outside a table overlooks the river Campuhan where a flask of hot tea and sugar bananas is placed every morning by a young girl padding silently past the simple single room cottages lining the hillside. A fifteen minute walk down the hill takes us to Ubud - the cultural and artistic heart of Bali- 5 minutes by rented motorbike- a great way to get around. This is an enchanted place with many laid back restaurants, galleries and markets to become absorbed in.  
A cooking class presented an opportunity to check out spices used in gado gado, my fave Indonesian dish and to meet travellers from distant parts of the world. Don't miss a chance to buy a ticket to see the Kecak Monkey Chant- a  dramatic battle sequence from the Hindu epic 'Ramayana'-  captured in the brilliant 1993 film 'Baraka'. Jalan Monkey Forest is a street (next to the monkey forest!) where there are several small textile shops. I spent a lot of time at one in particular, looking at vintage ikats from Timor and fell in love with this woven floral pattern runner.

Kecak Dance

seminyak

Dusk at Abian Biu

Where you choose to stay when travelling can make a big impact on your enjoyment. Let's face it- it's your home and sanctuary for that time and if the staff are happy and friendly, that affects the way you see the people. I personally like to search out somewhere small and atmospheric, and nearly always, the people are lovely too. Abian Biu is a chichi little place with a pool near rice paddies about 10 minute taxi ride from Seminyak. The owner/manager 'Mr Yoseph', a flamboyant Javanese, has built the place in a traditional style of Java with Chinese overtones. He was decorator to royalty in Java and has furnished the place with old photographs and vintage pieces he has collected. The staff are very personable, relaxed and obviously love working here. I have seen some poor reviews but would go for feel over immaculate cleanliness anyday, particularly when reasonably priced and in countries that are not 1st world.

Seminyak is near the beach, with great little boutiques and quite a few nice little places to eat. My recommendations are- La Lucciola smack bang on the beach- beautiful view for breakfast, Made's Warung and Cafe Bali on Jalan Oberoi.

bali

Bali is the island dreams are made of- a tropical paradise. Temperate weather all year round and serene, gentle people- a mere 3 hour plus flight from Perth. Perfect for a week away! Australians take Bali for granted, often forgetting how exotic this island really is, how spiritual and special the culture and lifestyle.
 Several times a day offerings are made to the spirits in observance of Hindu beliefs. Homes, cafes and businesses will always have a shrine in one corner where incense sticks are lit and offerings of flowers, fruit and rice are made on bended knee with hands clasped and head bowed. There is a strong connection to the village of one's birth where it is considered a duty to return for any important occasion or religious observance- often resulting in frequent sudden departures! 
It is lovely to see both women and men often wearing the elegant traditional batik sarong as everyday dress.

margaret river

The southernmost tip of Western Australia is home to the famously beautiful area of Margaret River, known for producing world class wine and it's pristine coastline. There is a 135 km walk from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin in the south known as the Cape to Cape track. It meanders through protected national parks, kauri forests and down to the beaches - it can be walked in 4 days, camping along the way. I walked a section of it near Hamelin Bay when all the wildflowers were in bloom, catching sight of fat lizards sunning themselves on the sand. The big controversy happening currently is the potential coal mine being touted for the area. Locals make their own fun in this remote area- while visiting my brother, I was invited to a 'house concert' where Waifs drummer David Ross MacDonald entertained with ballads on guitar and stories. A neighbour told the fantastic story of how she came upon German kayaker Freya Hoffmeister landing on the beach at Augusta looking for somewhere to camp while circumnavigating Australia solo last year.

perth

Sailing on the Swan River -yes,there are (black) swans.

 

The huge coastline is a major feature of West Australia and sailing is a favourite pastime (remember the Americas Cup?). Perth is bounded by water-the Indian Ocean along the coast and the Swan River running right through the middle of the city. A 10 minute walk takes you from the city railway station to the banks of the Swan River where yachts race each other any day of the week. Another favourite pastime is drinking beer. The tradition of the great Aussie pub is testament to this- several fine examples still exist in Fremantle, notably the Sail and Anchor on South Terrace, located opposite another institution- the Fremantle Markets.I always visit this friendly and unique market. You never know what you'll find there. I picked up some wildflower honey and  a couple of great Aboriginal art calendars and CDs.

fremantle

South Tce- Aussie style

Arriving in Perth in November, you know you are at the edge of the desert when it is 39 degrees outside and the airport is full of sunburnt musclebound men wearing shorts and thongs in transit from booming mining towns up north. My flight took 5 1/2 hours by air from Brisbane, and I made a beeline for my favourite neighbourhood of Fremantle, or Freo as it is affectionately known to locals. Locals and tourists alike descend on the cafes, hotels and restaurants that abound in this lively seaside port. Historic sandstone buildings and shops line the streets and waterside. Check out 'Diamond Aps' on Wray Avenue where I snapped up a preloved mens Armani navy blazer and floral Guy Laroche shirt for Xmas pressies, making sure to have a coffee at Wild Poppy next door. Then take a step back in time to 'Bousfields' on High Street, a mens store that dates back to 1902 where they stock a great range of Akubra hats- I picked up a classic black felt 'Stylemaster' for moi.