marrakech

The train to Marrakech from Fes takes a full 8 hours (make that 9 after a delay) stopping at many stations along the way. After Fes it seems like a very large, noisy, busy city, full of honking, weaving cars, horse drawn carriages and crowds. The charm of Marrakech is hidden under it's exterior, hidden away in the quiet side streets and havens behind closed doors of the riads and homes. Moroccans I met seemed to be very reserved, thoughtful and good humoured and generally polite, not pushy. They are legendary traders and however much experience you may have at bargaining, you will not succeed in paying less than what your purchase is worth -at best. Mostly I saw men out and about in public- women less so, usually with other women, in a group, or with their husband.  Walking down the crowded streets meant being jostled constantly, and it made sense in the streets of near the busy Djemaa El Fna square to walk behind the women, as the men instantly respectfully clear a path for them, not so a tourist!
Whenever we needed a rest from the overwhelmingness of negotiating the city, we escaped gratefully to the cool peace and quiet of our riad. Maison Arabo-Andelouse is an ancient riad just outside the medina run by  Mohammed, a wonderful Berber gentleman. He cared for us in a most gracious, caring manner. When bidding our goodbyes, he made one of the most touching of gestures- placing the hand on the heart and a bowing of the head- a sign of respect in the Arab world.