Sunday, October 17, 2010

Provence

Get this straight- the French do markets. You do not need to go to a supermarket. We went to this gorgeous country market in a Carpentras in Provence, it runs every Friday morning. I had no idea there were so many varieties of tomato....there were stalls selling fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese, charcuterie, bread and any number of other things you might not know you needed- including those great cotton espadrilles in a huge variety of colours.  In any town or village in France, there will also be markets selling similar stuff- the farmers of France have worked out how to sell fresh and direct to the customer. There are similar suburban markets in Paris on several mornings a week- there was a market in the street outside our hotel three mornings a week. Food is generally quite cheap compared to Australia and of a high standard. You can buy alcohol and organic skincare at the supermarkets at less than half the price I am used to paying.


We stayed at a fabulous 'bastide' - A Cappella a converted farmhouse with a pool in the countryside outside of Carpentras in the vineyard district. They have three rooms and our hosts Remy and Christine were wonderful. Christine recommended a couple of restaurants to us. We drove our rented car to a gorgeous little village nearby- St. Didier, and the other was simply eight tables in the courtyard of a family run vineyard in Pernes Les Fontaines which we visited the next night.

Domaine de la Camarette is a restaurant run by the family who grow all the produce used and bottle the wine served. The chef was picking herbs in the garden next to where we pulled up. He came to the table and lovingly explained the four courses of the set menu, his charming wife served the meals while their toddlers played with their cat near the tables. There are also a couple of rooms for guests. This visit was a highlight of our stay in Provence, however a booking is definitely required.
ps. Do not miss a day wandering in the atmospheric Pannier quartier in Marseilles - not on the map now, but not for very much longer.

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