Provence

Get this straight- the French do markets. You do not need to go to a supermarket. We went to this gorgeous country market in a Carpentras in Provence, it runs every Friday morning. I had no idea there were so many varieties of tomato....there were stalls selling fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese, charcuterie, bread and any number of other things you might not know you needed- including those great cotton espadrilles in a huge variety of colours.  In any town or village in France, there will also be markets selling similar stuff- the farmers of France have worked out how to sell fresh and direct to the customer. There are similar suburban markets in Paris on several mornings a week- there was a market in the street outside our hotel three mornings a week. Food is generally quite cheap compared to Australia and of a high standard. You can buy alcohol and organic skincare at the supermarkets at less than half the price I am used to paying.


We stayed at a fabulous 'bastide' - A Cappella a converted farmhouse with a pool in the countryside outside of Carpentras in the vineyard district. They have three rooms and our hosts Remy and Christine were wonderful. Christine recommended a couple of restaurants to us. We drove our rented car to a gorgeous little village nearby- St. Didier, and the other was simply eight tables in the courtyard of a family run vineyard in Pernes Les Fontaines which we visited the next night.

Domaine de la Camarette is a restaurant run by the family who grow all the produce used and bottle the wine served. The chef was picking herbs in the garden next to where we pulled up. He came to the table and lovingly explained the four courses of the set menu, his charming wife served the meals while their toddlers played with their cat near the tables. There are also a couple of rooms for guests. This visit was a highlight of our stay in Provence, however a booking is definitely required.
ps. Do not miss a day wandering in the atmospheric Pannier quartier in Marseilles - not on the map now, but not for very much longer.

Le Marais

 Did you think I forgot about shopping?? Not a chance- I made sure to
take in the gorgeous district of the Marais (it's original meaning is 'the marsh') -an area full of tiny streets and beautiful old buildings undergoing gentrification. Many of these buildings have fabulous chic boutiques, cafes and a lot of unique accessories and individual designs. My very favourite is at 47 Rue Saintonge- Isabel Marant. Loved the window display of a cactus garden and the design of the store. Across the street I spotted a tiny boutique which was closed on Saturday (many are) -where this simple, soft leather bag caught my eye in the window. You will also find  the oldest food market in Paris here- 'Le Marche des Enfants' built in 1615, a good reason to stop for lunch. I would really recommend a visit to this area starting at Bastille station, walking along Rue de Rivoli, taking the 3rd street right to the lovely Maison de Victor Hugo, and continuing through to the garden of Place de Vosges, then walking north towards Rue Veille du Temple and just get lost!

Bon Marche

Another great Parisienne thing to do on a weekend is visiting a flea market. There are several large well known ones around, however this one is quite a casual relaxed affair south of Paris near Porte de Vanves station. Unlike other markets I have been to, they hardly notice you, in fact it is fairly hard to get their attention if they are deep in discussion. I suspect it is just as much an social occasion for the stall holders, who seem to really enjoy themselves conversing with each other. Check out these dudes -they are seriously into debate (notice the hand gesturing- a lot of that goes on when making a point) and have a platter of cheese, bread and red wine set up behind them on a tablecloth no less. They are selling pewterware (not cheese) and this is 10am in the morning. Now to me, that is the is doing it in the style that the French are renowned for.